1/ The rumors have been confirmed. Superstar Lady GaGa is the latest face of Versace's new campaign. Lensed by Mert & Marcus, as previously reported, GaGa is seen sporting straight long platinum locks and styled in a way not without reminiscing of Ms. Donatella Versace, herself.
2/ British house Mulberry announced it will not present its coming fall 2014 collections on a catwalk during London Fashion Week in February but will participate nonetheless on a smaller scale. The news is following the label's former designer, Emma Hill's departure as the "creative director search is not finalized" yet, they say.
3/ Secretive jewelry designer Jöel Arthur Rosenthal A.K.A. JAR is being thrown under the spotlight as New York’s Metropolitan Museum has opened an exclusive retrospective featuring more than 400 of his one-of-a-kind finest creations.
4/ For its eleventh Les Frimousses initiative, UNICEF has tapped 42 fashion houses including Chanel, Lanvin and Dior among others, to craft high fashion dolls that have been exhibited at the Petit Palais in Paris until December 1, before being put to auction on Monday.
5/ The British Fashion Council is honouring British supermodel Kate Moss’ 25-year career in fashion at the British Fashion Awards. Considered a continued influence on the industry and a style icon, she is being presented with the Special Recognition Award.
This year’s ANDAM laureate and press’ favorite, Alexandre Mattiussi, launched the store for his brand AMI a year ago in the trendy Marais. Cozy and elegant, the place is modelled on the clothes’ aesthetic.
Last year, the upper chic Bon Marché rive gauche relaunched a brand new renovated and bigger men’s section. Polished, luxurious and very sleek in its selection, it’s every elegant man’s dream department store.
Unveiled in last October, designer Guillaume Henry’s Carven man-boy eventually has his own dedicated store in the Marais. Despite being modest in space, the store stocks everything there is to love about the brand’s collection in a minimal and sporty schoolish decor.
Dries Van Noten installed his parisian stores on the quays near St-Germain-des-Prés and its arts galleries. An influence that can be felt in his extremely refined and exotic men’s boutique that appears like a curiosity cabinet.
Korean sisters of Wooyoungmi have also chosen the Marais to install
their freshly opened new flagship store. A clean space made out of
marble, gold decoration and wide windows on the outside. As desirable as
2013 red and brown bags, boxes, ordinary items and
1/ Designer Ashley Olsen has been appointed alongside Prabal Gurung and Kate Spade's Deborah Lloyd new members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). The trio succeeds Yeohiee Teng, Kenneth Cole and Isabel Toledo and joins the likes of Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Oscar de la Renta and other prestigious designers.
2/ Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester is leaving her namesake label announcing in a handwritten letter that "a new time is coming both for my personal life and the brand". It hasn't been specified whether a new creative director would be named but the men's and women's collections for Fall 2014 will be presented together in February.
3/ Star fashion curator Olivier Saillard offered "Eternity Dress" this week in Paris, a fifty-one-minute performance starring actress Tilda Swinton sponsored by fashion house Chloé and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts. The show explored the art of dressmaking starting with lines and measurements working up through flat patterns and the beginning of a dress.
4/ French multi-national holding company group Kering (Formerly PPR) announced that it was entering into a joint venture with Bottega Veneta’s German creative director Tomas Maier in order to further develop his namesake label, which he founded in 1997 but has stopped working on since 2001. “I couldn’t dream of a better business partner, we speak the same language and really see things the same way.” he shared.
5/ Delphine Arnault and LVMH announced the new LVMH prize for young designers: an opportunity to win a 300, 000 euro investiment with a year of mentorship plus the chance to have their work judged by a panel including Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Ricardo Tisci, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. The annual prize is open to any designer under 40 who has produced two commercially available collections of women's and/or men's ready-to-wear.
"Can I take a picture with you ? I'm a big fan..." No, this young man wasn't talking to KanYe West or Carine Roitfeld during Paris fashion week. But to me... You can laugh now. I had to briefly restrain from bursting into laughter myself: that's how ridiculous the situation seemed to me. Not that I don't enjoy or appreciate a nice compliment, I do. Especially when honest and genuine. Here was the case. But I certainly wouldn't consider myself worthy of the "picture with me" treatment. It had happened once before after a Yohji Yamamoto show a few seasons back and felt equally strange/awkward. Why ? Because those gentlemen seem to have a distorted vision of me. Blame it on web life, a world where every instagramer is a self proclamed photographer, every Tumblr owner is a journalist and every fashion blogger is a fashion director. In other words, smoke and mirrors where everyone tends to give oneself more importance than they should. Be careful, what you see is not necessarily what you get.
1/ To celebrate the launching of their new website, I-D.CO, British magazine i-D is teaming up with Kenzo to sponsor singer M.I.A.'s latest video for her new single "Y.A.L.A." off the album "Matang !" Directed by Daniel Sanwald, the video sees M.I.A. wearing Kenzo Fall 2013 clothes, a custom made jacket as well as jewelry from the brand's collaboration with Delfina Deletrez.
2/ Swedish giant H&M has opened a new 7, 000-square-foot megastore in Times Square. The retail complex that offers late hours (all week long through 1 a.m.), a virtual catwalk, interactive mannequins, and a 53-foot glitter wall was ribbon-cut by Lady GaGa on Thursday morning during a special ceremony. The store will also sell the singer's latest album.
3/ Italian iconic fashion house Versace is rumored to have tapped Donatella's eccentric pop star BFF Lady GaGa to star in its Spring 2014 campaign. The ads were allegedly lensed by Mert & Marcus in London a few weeks ago. A song titled "Donatella" is featured on GaGa's recently released album, ARTPOP.
4/ Super fashion photographer Mario Testino has jumped on the Instagram bandwagon this week by launching an account on the popular social platform. The legendary Peruvian photographer is expected to leak behind-the-scenes footage from his numerous and prestigious gigs across the globe. At least, we hope !
5/ Fendi announced that it will release a Spring 2015 capsule collection with French eyewear designer Thierry Lasry, best known for his stand-out shades. The collaboration marks the first ever partnership with a luxury fashion house for Lasry.
1/ Rapper and fashion enthusiast KanYe West has tapped fashion house Maison Martin Margiela for the costumes of the promotional tour of his latest album Yeezus, released in June 2013. Margiela has created 10 couture pieces, 8 ready-to-wear items and an exclusive pair of sneakers for West, inspired by the archives of the label who reworked some of their emblematic designs.
2/ Former soccer player and superstar David Beckham is following in his wife's footsteps by designing a collection for the British heritage brand, Belstaff. He will also serve as the face of the brand and model in a black and white Peter Lindbergh-lensed campaign.
3/ The always extravagant pop star Lady GaGa is to board a Virgin Galactic spaceship in 2015 to become the first artist to perform live in outer space as part of the three day hi-tech music festival Zero G Colony. GaGa will sing a trackonce zero gravity is reached but therefore will undergo amonth of vocal training to prepare for the gravity and weightlessness in space.
4/ Super pop star Justin Timberlake kicked off last week his 20/20 Experience world tour in eight custom-designed Tom Ford outfits as part of their ongoing collaboration ever since the beginning of JT's latest album promotion. Another impressive 592 looks were created for the band, background vocalists and dancers.
5/ French house Louis Vuitton has finally made it official on Monday last week that former Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquière would be the new man at the helm of the label. Ghesquière will present his debut collection for the house in March during Paris Fashion Week and is said to continue Marc Jacobs' legacy by choosing to show at the now usual venue of La Cour Carrée du Louvre.
1/ After supermodel Lara Stone last month, American actress Blake Lively is the new addition to L'Oréal Paris' prestigious ambassadors and spokespersons club, joining the likes of fellow actresses Freida Pinto, Julianne Moore and others.
2/ French menswear label AMI has teamed up with online luxury retailer Mr. Porter to create a capsule collection of 9 eveningwear items including 2 tuxedos and trademark accessories from the brand such as red socks and sneakers. The collection will be available online from mid-november.
3/ ‘‘Blue is the warmest color’’'s controversials French actresses Léa Seydoux and Adèle Exarchopoulos have been tapped by Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu's Resort campaign shot by Inez & Vinoodh. The Palme d'Or-winning stars appear as an inseparable duo.
4/ Ralph Lauren's young and bohemian second line, Denim & Supply, has launched "The Art Wall" project in New York, inviting young artists to decorate its flagship store's frontage and producing limited edition collectors items in support. American artist Hellbent is the first to unveil his work.
5/ Italian label Moschino has hired quirky American designer Jeremy Scott to be its new creative director, replacing Rossella Jordini who has been at the head since 1994 when Franco Moschino, the house founder, died. Scott will make his debut for Fall 2014 in Milan next year, in February.
1/ Begginning next month, from November 15 through March 19, the Design Museum in London will honor designer Paul Smith's nearly 45-year-long carreer in the fashion business with "Hello, My Name is Paul Smith", a retrospective of his whimsical yet impeccable and savvy British fashion from menswear and ready-to-wear to collaborations including Mini Coopers and Leica cameras.
2/ Super rapper KanYe West and reality TV star baby mama Kim Kardashian are to be married. West rent out San Francisco's AT&T Park on Kim's birthday for the occasion and did things in style as the engagement proposal included fireworks, an orchestra as well as the whole Kardashian clan in attendance.
3/ The 85th edition of Florence's Pitti Uomo menswear trade show will guest honor Diesel Black Gold as Andreas Melbostad, former Phi designer and creative designer of Diesel's designer ready-to-wear collection, will present his first menswear offering.
4/ Paris-based, Portuguese-born designer, Felipe Oliveira Baptista is celebrating this year the tenth anniversary of his eponymous line. For the occasion, Lisbon's Design and Fashion Museum (MuDe) is putting a retrospective that will run through February 16. Baptista worked alongside set designer Alex de Betak in order to come up with a high concept show that will "tell the story behind the clothes."
5/ German designer Jil Sander is leaving her eponymous label created in 1968 for the third time after returning last year for spring 2013, replacing Raf Simons who had held the role of creative director for seven years. The sudden departure is said to be due to personal reasons making the last show presented in Milan in September for spring 2014 her last.
6/Rizzoli publications are releasing a new tome documenting Diana Vreeland's US VOGUE years through the 60's. Featuring more than 250 notes from the iconic fashion editor herself, compiled by her grandson Alexander (husband of Lisa Immordino Vreeland, who directed last year's documentary «The Eye Has To Travel»), the book gives an insight into her precision and depicts correspondences withlegends such as Cristóbal Balenciaga and Richard Avedon.
1/ Iconic 90's couple Johnny Depp and Kate Moss, who dated from 1994 to 1997, are rumored to be reunited on screen in Paul McCartney's new music video, "Queenie Eye". Another prestigious part of the cast would be actress Meryl Streep.
2/ Designer Christopher Bailey will replace Angela Ahrendts (tapped by Apple) as CEO of Burberry in addition to maintaining his role as creative director of the British label, which he has held for the past 6 years. Bailey's new appointment will be effective mid-2014.
3/ Former Spice Girl-turned-successful-designer Victoria Beckham is to open her first standalone store in London, on Dover Street in Mayfair. A big turning pointas her collections are currently stocked in department stores and online only. The persisting rumor hasn't been confirmed by any official spokesperson yet though.
4/ 29-year-old Dutch supermodel Lara Stone - and wife of David Walliams - has been announced L'Oréal's latest Global Spokesperson. Stone will represent future great product innovations in several categories, including makeup, hair color and hair care, joining the likes of Doutzen Kroes, Beyoncé Knowles, Eva Longoria, Laetitia Casta and others.
5/ French shoe designer and fashionistas favorite Christian Louboutin released last week "Nudes", a collection including five styles of shoes in five nude shades to match a rainbow of skin tones in order to "become a fluid extension of the legs." A free iPhone app helping to determine which nude is just right for you has been created to accompany the collection.
1/ Versace has confirmed a nineteen-piece collection in collaboration with Sri Lankan's artist M.I.A. for the house's Versus line. The singer's inspiration for the quirky offering is said to be the Versace counterfeits she owned as a teenager. The M.I.A. X Versus Versace collection will be available online and in selected stores from October 16.
2/ The fashion blogosphere lit up on Thursday with confirmations here and there that designer Nicolas Ghesquière was officially appointed creative director of Louis Vuitton. Although French Le Point.fr broke the news on October 4, LVMH representatives stated otherwise, having no comments on whether the designer was being considered nor when Marc Jacobs' successor will be named.
3/ The Prada Marfa art installation created by artists Michael Elmgreem and Ingar Dragset in 2005, which consists of a sculpture/faux Prada store (permanently locked) in the middle of the Texas desert, is in jeopardy of being removed. The Texas Department of Transportation is arguing that Prada Marfa is considered outdoor advertising, according to law, in which case a state license and permit are needed.
4/ Topshop is reigniting its successful collaboration with supermodel Kate Moss, three and a half years after her last collection for the British label. Inspired once again by her own bohemian-ish style, the capsule collection for spring 2014 is expected to hit the highstreet retailer stores April 2014.
5/ Forbes magazine released its list of the highest paid male models of 2013 last week. British supermodel David Gandy's top spot has been stolen by American Sean O'Pry who took home 1,5 millions dollars in the last 12 months. Gandy came in second with a close 1,4 millions dollars.
It's been a week since the bomb dropped that Marc Jacobs would leave his prestigious position of creative director at Louis Vuitton. Despite not being a surprise, it's still hard to picture what the French house will become without the one who literally shaped its womenwear identity from scratch. In the meantime, here are Jacobs' significant moments during his reign.
For Spring 2001, Jacobs reached out to artist Stephen Sprouse for a surprising collaboration aiming to modernize the house's emblematic monogram logos by customizing it, a concept that will be developped each seasons through the years. Sprouse’sneon-colored graffitis will become a hit.
The next artist approached by Jacobs will be japanese Takashi Murakami, who will turn the legendary brown/gold waxcloth into black and white ones with multicolored logoson them, for spring 2003. Flowers and cherries will also appear on certain bags.
Way before Phoebe Philo's Céline collection for Fall 2013, Marc Jacobs used the controversial «Tati print» as a precursor.
The Louis Vuitton woman:
The Louis Vuitton woman:
If Jacobs' debut
collection for Vuitton
was minimalist (despite
his grunge previous
history), from spring
2008 on, his aesthetic
went more dramatic and
displaying the Vuitton
woman as a strong-
almost playing dress up.
Jacobs made it a habit
to have his friend Kate
Moss closing some of
his shows in style.
He also went into a
phase through 2008-2012.
Together with Chanel, the Louis Vuitton presentation has become the biggest production and sought after show of Paris fashion weeks. Marc Jacobs’ extravagant sceneries went from fountains, a train station and hotel corridor reproductions, a carroussel and elevators to escalators designed by artist Daniel Buren.
"You can't eternally be on vacation, M.B. !" My brother said to me on my post-holidays September blues. A statement which reason I can't wrap my head around, except maybe for the obvious financial aspect of it. How stupid of me not to be rich ! Call it growth, maturity, evolution or plain Parisian "blasé" condition but this year's beginning of autumn term was harder on me than usual. Dishonnest polished political speeches seem a tad more annoying than they already were, journalism lacking in-depth information more irritating and don't even get me started on fashion fatigue. Yet, spring 2014’s fashion month have already gone by and here we are reflecting on it. But somehow my mind is still away ! As if a change needed to happen, a revolution to be made, decisions to be taken. Without a warning, the need of newness slips through and calls out, without a doubt, to find its meaning, reason and purpose.
1/ After much speculation on the matter, it has been officially confirmed by LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault, on Wednesday (March 2), after the Louis Vuitton show, that the house would part ways with its creative director of 16 years, Marc Jacobs, who will focus on his own brand. Rumor has it that Nicolas Ghesquière is most likely to succeed him at the helm of the house, possibly in a few days.
2/ Luxury menswear online retailer Mr. Porter is launching a brand new grooming and skin care section, expanding its already wide-ranging offer website. The dedicated area showcases a selection of high-end products available to buy individually as well as boxed gift sets from brands including Aésop, D.R. Harris, Le Labo and more.
3/ Beauty giant Lancôme has revealed 24-year-old actress, model and daughter of pop star Phil Collins, Lily, as their new brand ambassadors for the spring makeup collection "Ballerine". Collins joins existing faces for the brand Kate Winslet, Emma Watson and Julia Roberts.
4/ Eponymous label Jean Patou, created in 1914 by the designer, is the latest sleeping fashion house to plan a comeback. It has been announced this week that a return to the Paris couture scene next year is to be expected. A master in the art of sportswear, Jean Patou revolutionized women's wardrobes, becoming one of the most influential designers of his time. After his death in 1936, Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix designed for the fashion house until the closure of its couture division.
5/ DVF former's righ-hand man, Yvan Mispelaere, has been appointed Roberto Cavalli's first ever design director. His first collection for fall 2014 will be shown in Milan in February. Mispelaere quit DVF in 2012 after two-and-a-half years of service. His resume includes work at Gucci, Chloe under Phoebe Philo and Valentino.
6/ Ralph Lauren and concept store Colette have joined forces for the release of two exclusive versions of the Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky bag. This new version will include soft Italian calf leather, a slightly smaller size, and the use of the store's 'Colette blue' in two available color combinations (white or black/blue) as part of the design. From October 7 through 12 at a retail price of 1750 euros.
A look back to June and all the highlights from the English menswear season.
Boy meets girl: as seen at Astrid Andersen, Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, J.W. Anderson, Lee Roach, MAN, Richard Nicoll, Sibling and Xander Zhou.
If the London collections were about one thing, it was gender-bending clothing. Or more precisely about the idea of unisex; The master of the trend J.W. Anderson went architectural but there were also skirts, peplums, flowers, light colors and sheer throughout the various collections.
Colorama: as seen at Agi & Sam, Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz and Richard Nicoll.
Having become summer regulars, bright and loud colors are back for another ride: color-blocking, or monochroming are the way to go, the real newness standing in the use of leather, rubber, silk-blend and patent leather among others.
The Perfect Fit: as seen at Hackett London, Hardy Amies and Richard James.
London is always faithful to its Saville Row heritage with a string of designers letting tailoring take center stage of their collections which showcased perfect fitted suits including the modern take on pants - cropped and worn without socks. It was the case at Hackett London, Hardy Amies and Richard James.
Sportswear: as seen at Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon and James Long.
The integration of sportswear influences and elements in menswear has become specific to most of the significant collections from the last seasons and this one was no exception: sneakers, gym shorts and parkas would be the most recurrent items used in tech fabrics such as nylon, polyamide or mesh but also in surprising ones like leather and satiny cotton for an exemple.
Minimalism: as seen at Agi & Sam, Christopher Kane, Pringle of Scotland and Xander Zhou.
Unlike the exuberance defining a large portion of London’s new generation that has been recently criticized for its love of clashing colors and prints, other designers are taking the minimalist approach with a more simple sophistication enhanced by an overall very sharp style made of clean lines and classic colors (black, white, navy, grey...)
Prints: as seen at Alexander McQueen, Agi & Sam, Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz, James Long, Lee Roach and Xander Zhou.
What would the London scene be without its prints ? Probably not much. From psychedelic to flowery, graphic, wild, arty or even collage, you can pretty much find it all, for every taste and style.
Fabrics: as seen at Alexander McQueen, Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz, James Long, Tom Ford and Xander Zhou.
It would be safe to say that men wearing vinyl will not go viral in the streets by next spring, but it is interesting to acknowledge the strong use of it in the London collections. Another it-fabric, much more formal and wearable, was jacquard, worn asevening jackets or as a whole at McQueen (!).
The accessories: as seen at Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, James Long, Pringle of Scotland and Topman Design.
Focus on the stand-out accessories we’ve got to have from the London collections.
I'm a 24-year-old Paris-based contributing freelance stylist and editor for monthly French fashion magazine "Be" (Lagardère group) and menswear fashion editor for online monthly publication GHUBAR magazine. Passionate about fashion, music and art, I share my views and work through this blog.